Alright friends… more about how I created the “micro camper”. You’re probably going to get sick of this in a couple weeks, but it was quite the project so I want to detail everything to death. So it all started out because Julius is obsessed with our next door neighbor’s RV. They have a class A RV, which is huge. Like a bus. Like Julius, my neighbor is also a bit obsessed with his RV and can be seen washing it in the driveway every weekend or airing it out. He also built a platform for it which is next to our property line so my kids are now able to creep on the camper at all times of day from the safety of our yard. They just stand there, stare at it, daydream and ask me questions like “do you think we can go in it?”, “do you think it has a toilet in it” and “can we get one”? (To which I answer ‘no’, ‘no’ and ‘no’, though they figured out I’m joking about the second one.)
Anyway I got so sick of hearing them talk about the RV that I started looking up van life videos. Or maybe my phone was spying on me and started feeding them to me. Then I started thinking to myself, I bet I could turn the RAV4 into a camper. Plenty of people have posted videos of platforms built in the back of the RAV that sleep 2. Four though, I couldn’t find that anywhere. In fact my friend told me it was impossible. To which I replied ‘challenge accepted’. After much measuring of all the family members, measuring of the car interior and then forcing Will to lay in the back of the RAV4 with me I decided it was actually possible. I was going to win this challenge.
What I’d discovered to make it all possible are these things used for camper vans called “Cabbunk” beds. They are basically cots that are mounted above the front seats to provide a place for a child to sleep. They didn’t look that hard to make. The measuring helped me determine that my kids could sleep horizontally in the RAV4 above the front seats and above the second row of seats (folded down). I’d found some folks on pinterest had made their own versions of Cabbunk beds that had various methods of being attached to the car. Most were made of PVC (which really didn’t seem strong enough) but the ones linked above were made of steel tubing. I decided to use these as my guide! I also used this tube calculator to overengineer the heck out of this thing. It can technically hold Will, but he’d never fit.
I made mine a bit different than their tutorial. Instead of using elbows, I used T connectors so I could feed a strap thru the center of the pole to hang them. (I hang them with racketing straps from the roof rack for Julius, and the roof rack and across the front window for Patricia.) I also added some padding (pipe insulation I had lying around) on the short ends so not to damage the windows. For the material for the cot I bought cotton duck canvas material from Joann Fabrics (RIP). (Luckily it was after they announced they were closing but before the bankruptcy sellers took over so I bought 3 yards for $6 a yard.) It was exactly enough for me to make 2 cots. To make the seam more sturdy by overlapping several inches of material and sewing double seams on each end. I also liked the idea of being able to add a layer of padding in between for additional R-value while camping in cold weather, so I made one end velcro open-able.
From the moment I hung them up to test them out the kids started asking me if they could sleep in the car. (Luckily this made them stop creeping on the RV next door so mission accomplished I guess.) I didn’t give in until the actual camping trip though, I was worried Patricia would tell one of her teachers “we slept in the car last night” and I’d had to explain the whole micro camper project and why we slept in the car in our garage. When they finally did get to sleep in them, the kids said they slept very soundly in the cots and they were quite comfortable. They looked all cuddly and cozy in their little nests.
Before you go, I forgot to share a funny story from while we were camping. The first day we’d all gotten settled into the car (remember no way to open the car from the back) and I was just starting to drift off to sleep when Patricia shouted from the front “I have to go potty!” I just burst out laughing and then carefully extracted myself from the car to take her to the bathroom. I couldn’t stop laughing for hours.
Micro Camper Hanging Cots
What you’ll need (for each bed):
4 – 3/4″ Structural Black Single Socket Tee ($19.24)
1 – 10′ 3/4″ Structure Black Pipe (DOM Steel) ($28.85)
1 – 36″ 3/4″ Structure Black Pipe ($9.38)
2 – 12×1″ Racheting Strap 500LB (4.96)
pipe insulation or foam padding (free from scrap)
1.5 yards of heavyweight duck canvas ($9)
1′ of 2″ velcro (purchased in excess from another project)
Steel Frame
1. Start by measuring your car to determine the length and width of the cot. You can then determine the length of your tubes by accounting for the bump out from the ‘T’ connectors. I needed to cut 2 58″ bars and 2 18″ bars for one set and 2 56″ bars and 2 18″ bars for the other set.
2. Cut your bars to length. I used a hacksaw and a LOT of patience for this. It took me a couple hours to cut them all.
3. Attach your t-connectors and assemble.
4. Feed the ratcheting straps thru the long ends of the tubing.
Fabric Cover
1. Measure around the metal bars and add an inch of fabric. Then add an additional 2″ for seam allowance and 4 additional inches to strengthen the seam.
2. Next measure the length of fabric needed from t-connector to t-connector. Add 2″ for seam allowance.
3. Cut fabric to measurements above, and then hem the edges by doing a rolled hem.
4. Overlap the two long ends of the fabric by 4″ then stitch along each rolled hem.
5. Measure and cut a rectangle to fasten to the head of the fabric, loop over one end of the tubing, and fasten to the back side. Then cut a second, larger version to fasten to the head of the fabric, loop over one end of the tubing, and overlap the back side by several inches (for velcro). Again make sure to add 2″ seam allowance on each side.
6. Again hem.
7. Stitch the shorter version to the front side of the bed and the back side of the bed.
8. Stitch the longer version to the front side of the bed, and add a 2″ velcro hook strip to the opposite end (on the underside). On the bottom side of the bed add a 2″ wide velcro loop strip.
9. When complete, shimmy fabric onto the steel structure.
10. Hang and Level.
Total cost per bed: $71.43



